DES MOINES
At the Fair, Do Calories on a Stick Count?
Dennis Chamberlin for The New York Times
Emma Wagler, 9, eats a caramel apple as she explores the fair with her mother, Stephanie, and sisters Isabell and Sophia (who are eating apple slices with a dipping sauce). More Photos »
By JANE FRITSCH
Published: August 13, 2012 90 Comments
Multimedia
THERE is no dignified way to eat deep-fried butter on a stick. Nor should there be.
It’s a daredevil food that squirts grease onto your chin or your shirt or a passer-by, a rebuke of your decision to try it. You must accept this.
The pork chop on a stick is the most truly Iowan food at the fair, which is meant to celebrate the achievements of Iowa’s commodity producers, Ms. Chappell said. Iowa is the country’s top hog producer.
That may explain a surge of interest in another item: the double-bacon, double-deep-fried corn dog on a stick, for $5. It is a hot dog wrapped in a slice of bacon, then immersed in hot oil until the bacon is crisp. After it cools, it is dipped in a cornmeal batter flavored with bacon bits, then deep-fried again. It is surprisingly flavorless, with the thick coat of cornmeal overwhelming the meat within.
The deep-fried pickle dawg ($3.50), on the other hand, is getting enthusiastic reviews. With its coating of flour and seasonings, it’s a warm and crispy blend of distinct flavors.
So, how guilty should a fairgoer feel about embracing this high-fat, high-sugar, high-cholesterol event?
“The issue is not going to the fair, the issue is we brought the fair home,” said Dr. David A. Kessler, a former head of the federal Food and Drug Administration. In his book on the neuroscience of food consumption, “The End of Overeating: Taking Control of the Insatiable American Appetite,” Dr. Kessler lays blame on supermarket aisles that are full of processed foods.
“Carnies understood this long before neuroscience did,” he said. “Fairs and carnivals are roller coasters of stimulation. Make no mistake, you’re captured.”
But there’s nothing wrong with going once, Dr. Kessler said.
“Pick your excitement: deep-fried butter,” he said. “My advice: go have a good time but come home and eat well.”
A similar piece of counsel came from David Zinczenko, the editor of Men’s Health and author of the popular “Eat This, Not That” books.
“Don’t be a killjoy at the fair,” he said. “Of course, we know these foods are obesity and heart disease on a stick. It’s sort of like bungee jumping: you’ll hurtle toward the valley floor, but your sense of satiety will snap you back before you hit the rocks. There’s only so much you can eat in an evening without slamming on the brakes.
“And just be grateful the fair is only once a year.”
new york times 15 august 2012
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